India’s Native Cotton Was Stamped Out. Can It Be Revived?
By Flawless Magazine
Once thriving across India’s diverse agro-climatic regions, native cotton varieties have been pushed to the margins—overrun by genetically modified hybrids and the high-yield promises they bring. But as the climate crisis deepens and ethical sourcing becomes more urgent, a new movement is working to bring indigenous cotton back to life.
The Story of Erasure
India is the world’s largest producer of cotton. Yet 95% of its cotton acreage today is dominated by genetically modified Bt cotton, introduced in the early 2000s to combat bollworm pests. Though initially hailed as a breakthrough, Bt cotton has come at a cost: monocultures, chemical dependency, and growing farmer distress due to rising input costs and falling soil health.
Native cotton—known by names like desi kapas—was sidelined in the process. Unlike Bt hybrids, these varieties are hardy, rain-fed, pest-resistant, and adapted to local ecologies. They require fewer chemical inputs, making them more sustainable and often cheaper to grow. But because they yield less per acre, they were deemed commercially unviable.
Why Revival Matters
Now, the narrative is shifting. Climate volatility, soil degradation, and mounting reports of farmer debt are prompting a rethink of how—and what—India grows.
Reviving indigenous cotton is not just about agricultural nostalgia. It’s a blueprint for:
- Climate resilience: Native varieties can thrive in low-water conditions and poor soils.
- Farmer autonomy: They reduce reliance on corporate seed monopolies and costly agrochemicals.
- Textile sustainability: They offer shorter, biodegradable fibers that pair well with regenerative practices.
- Cultural restoration: Many native varieties are tied to local traditions, spinning techniques, and artisanal craftsmanship.
Seeds of Change
Organizations like the Khamir Collective in Gujarat and the Centre for Sustainable Agriculture in Telangana are leading the revival. Their approach: seed conservation, farmer training, and reconnecting textile designers with indigenous fiber.
“We don’t just want to grow cotton—we want to rebuild the system around it,” says Revati Radhakrishnan, a regenerative farming advocate. That means reintroducing spinning and weaving ecosystems that once flourished alongside these crops.
Several fashion brands are joining the effort. Labels like 11.11/eleven eleven and Moral Fibre are sourcing desi cotton and telling its story, positioning it as a symbol of slow, ethical fashion.
Challenges Ahead
Still, challenges loom large. Native cotton yields are lower than hybrid counterparts, and processing infrastructure—especially for hand-ginning and short-staple spinning—is severely limited. Farmers often lack access to indigenous seeds or face pressure to stick with high-yield hybrids due to market demand.
There’s also the need to educate consumers about the value of native cotton: it feels different, wears differently, and requires a shift in expectations from mass-market uniformity.
Policy and the Path Forward
For true revival, policy support is critical. Experts call for:
- Public investment in seed banks and conservation.
- Subsidies for agroecological farming.
- Certification schemes for native cotton.
- Textile R&D that adapts machinery to indigenous fiber characteristics.
India has an opportunity to lead here—not just in textile exports, but in shaping a cotton economy rooted in biodiversity, resilience, and fairness.
Flawless Perspective
In a world chasing climate-smart solutions, the answer may lie in India’s past. Reviving native cotton isn’t a step backward—it’s a radical reimagining of the future. One where fashion and farming work in sync with nature, not against it.
Because sometimes, the most progressive path forward begins with remembering what we nearly forgot.
