The news that H&M is rolling out AI clones for modeling, while promising efficiency and cost savings for the fashion giant, has indeed been met with significant discontent, particularly from photographers and other creative professionals in the industry. This move highlights a rapidly evolving landscape where technological advancements clash with traditional livelihoods and ethical considerations.
Here’s a breakdown of the situation and the concerns:
H&M’s Strategy and Its Aims:
- Digital Twins: H&M is creating “digital twins” of 30 human models. These AI-generated replicas are designed to mimic the physical appearance and movements of real models.
- Efficiency and Cost Reduction: The primary drivers behind this move are to drastically reduce the time and cost associated with traditional photoshoots. As seen with Zalando, AI can cut content production time from weeks to days and costs by a significant margin. This allows H&M to keep up with fast fashion trends more effectively and generate a vast amount of diverse content.
- Increased Flexibility: Digital twins offer immense flexibility. They can be dressed in various outfits, posed in endless scenarios, and appear in multiple campaigns simultaneously, without the logistical challenges of scheduling, travel, and physical production.
- Compensation and Rights: H&M has stated that the models whose likenesses are used to create these digital twins will retain rights to their digital replicas and will be compensated for their use, similar to traditional modeling contracts. This is a crucial point, as the ethical use of digital likenesses is a major concern.
Why Photographers and Creatives Are “Not Happy”:
- Job Displacement Fears: This is the most immediate and significant concern. Photographers, makeup artists, stylists, lighting technicians, and other professionals who make up a traditional photoshoot crew fear that the widespread adoption of AI models will drastically reduce the demand for their services. If a brand can generate endless images without needing a full crew, many jobs are at risk.
- Devaluation of Human Creativity: Many creatives argue that AI cannot replicate the “human touch” – the spontaneity, emotion, and unique artistic vision that a human photographer or stylist brings to a shoot. Fashion photography is not just about showcasing clothes; it’s about storytelling, atmosphere, and creating an emotional connection, which critics argue AI struggles to achieve.
- Authenticity and Consumer Connection: There are questions about whether consumers will connect as deeply with AI-generated models as they do with real human models. Some argue that a lack of authenticity could lead to consumer skepticism or a feeling that the brand is less relatable.
- Ethical Concerns about Likeness and Control: While H&M claims models will be compensated and retain rights, unions and advocacy groups like the Model Alliance are raising concerns about the long-term implications. They question whether current contracts adequately protect models from potentially exploitative uses of their digital twins, such as being altered, aged, or used in ways they didn’t originally consent to. The legal landscape around AI and digital likenesses is still evolving, leaving many models vulnerable.
- Perpetuation of Unrealistic Beauty Standards: Critics also worry that AI models, if not carefully managed, could exacerbate existing issues with unrealistic beauty standards in the fashion industry. AI can easily create “perfect” and digitally manipulated figures, potentially reducing diversity and promoting unattainable ideals.
Broader Industry Context:
- Growing Trend: H&M is not alone. Other brands like Zalando, Mango, and Levi’s (who initially experimented but then clarified they wouldn’t scale back live shoots due to backlash) are also exploring or implementing AI in their marketing and content creation. This indicates a broader industry shift towards leveraging AI for efficiency.
- Regulation and Transparency: Platforms like Instagram and TikTok now require disclosure of AI-generated content. H&M has stated it will watermark its AI-generated images, which is a step towards transparency. However, the need for more robust legal frameworks and union agreements to protect workers’ rights in the age of AI is a pressing issue.
The “AI clones” initiative by H&M underscores a crucial tension in the digital age: the promise of technological advancement versus the potential disruption of human livelihoods and the complex ethical questions it raises. As AI continues to evolve, the fashion industry, like many others, will need to navigate this balance carefully to ensure innovation is pursued responsibly and equitably.
