Make sure to keep a close watch on these burgeoning labels

Amidst the flurry of another Fashion Month, there's more to behold beyond the viral runway moments and star-studded front rows. Emerging designers are making waves, offering unconventional and captivating designs that shake the fashion world to its core. From these fresh voices emerge future creative directors of esteemed fashion houses worldwide. Selected from numerous shows across New York, London, Milan, and Paris, here are 6 emerging designers from the Fall 2024 season worth keeping an eye on.

Agbobly

Founded amidst the challenges of the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020, Agbobly, spearheaded by Jacques Agbobly, swiftly garnered a cult following for its bold and vibrant aesthetics, coupled with a profound embrace of West African craftsmanship. The Fall 2024 collection epitomized this ethos, boasting an array of expressive colors and vibrant stripes reminiscent of rainbows. Agbobly, a self-proclaimed texture enthusiast, aimed to push the boundaries of print design, collaborating with painter Harlan Hue to create visually arresting motifs. Utilizing oil on linen—a signature technique of Hue—the collaboration resulted in a fusion of traditional craftsmanship and digital manipulation, reflecting themes of personal identity development central to the collection. Drawing inspiration from the cracked paint walls of Togo, where cherished memories of his family were captured, Agbobly intricately wove together diverse influences, encapsulating a narrative of embracing one's heritage while making a bold statement in the world. This sentiment is vividly embodied in the collection's standout piece—a striking coat that exudes confidence and individuality.

Caroline Zimbalist

 Incorporating bioplastics into a whimsical palette of fantasia-inspired colors and billowing fabrics, Caroline Zimbalist showcases a unique approach to fashion design, where natural elements take center stage. This emerging talent seamlessly blends surreal textures with vibrant hues, creating captivating pieces that mesmerize the senses. For her Fall 2024 collection, Zimbalist describes the experience as akin to a painting unfurling from the wall and enveloping the wearer's body, evoking a sense of artistry and movement. Additionally, she incorporates natural fibers into her designs, often molding traditional fabrics into bioplastic materials. Zimbalist emphasizes the natural essence of bioplastics, highlighting their compatibility with silk, cotton, or wool, while avoiding adherence to synthetic materials like polyester. This harmonious fusion of nature-inspired elements and innovative techniques defines Zimbalist's distinctive aesthetic, setting her apart as a rising star in the fashion industry.

Zankov

Henry Zankov, the founder of Zankov, injects personality and vibrancy into knitwear with his fluid prints, expressive stripes, and delightfully joyful pieces that challenge conventional norms. Having honed his craft under the mentorship of various LVMH-owned brands, Zankov ventured out on his own to establish his eponymous label in 2019. With the Fall 2024 collection, Zankov places emphasis on sensual textures and opulent silhouettes, drawing inspiration from his return to New York City. Reflecting on his experience, Zankov explains, "I moved back to New York City just over a year ago, and I was immediately embraced by its warmth and energy. This collection is a tribute to that feeling of connection and acceptance." From daring stripes to innovative textural experiments, Zankov redefines knitwear by infusing it with his distinctive personal style, offering a fresh perspective on this timeless wardrobe staple.

Taottao

COURTESY OF TAOTTAO

Taottao, founded by designer Yitao Li in 2022, seamlessly blends chic acid-washed denim with soft-pastel-toned plaid lace, creating captivating juxtapositions that redefine contemporary fashion. With a background in internships at esteemed fashion houses such as Monse, Thom Browne, Tibi, and Kim Shui, Li infuses her designs with unequivocal femininity, underscored by a cool, dark undertone. Expressing her vision, Li states, "My goal as a designer is to craft visual experiences that inspire joy and empower self-expression." She believes in the transformative power of fashion, using it as a tool to instill confidence and celebrate individuality. The Fall 2024 collection, Taottao's inaugural ready-to-wear line, draws inspiration from vintage cartoons, showcasing creatively reimagined denim and plaids. From coverall bodysuits to other unexpected delights, Taottao's creations evoke excitement and serve as a testament to embracing one's true self.

Jack Irving

London Fashion Week is renowned for championing avant-garde fashion talents, and Jack Irving undoubtedly embodies this ethos. The emerging designer, celebrated as much for his artistic vision as his fashion prowess, unveiled a collection of inflatable, wearable sculptures adorned in captivating shades of turquoise and cobalt blue. With fans including the iconic Lady Gaga, who embraced his extravagant creations nearly a decade ago during his student years, Irving's work stands out for its bold creativity. While his heavy art influence may keep him relatively under the radar compared to more commercially-driven fashion labels at London Fashion Week, Irving remains a compelling figure to watch in the industry.

Paolo Carzana

Since his debut at London Fashion Week in 2022, Paolo Carzana has garnered a devoted following for his distinct aesthetic and innovative techniques. Renowned for his use of hand-dyed fabrics derived from natural plant pigments, Carzana's creations boast rare textures and intricate layering. His designs feature textiles skillfully stacked atop one another, resulting in unique silhouettes that defy convention. The Fall 2024 collection, titled "Melanchronic Mountain," embarked on a symbolic journey, with models adorned in garments evocative of a well-worn, weathered appearance, seemingly dipped in dust or mud, exuding an enigmatic allure.